In & Around ""Apalach"

APALACHICOLA, Fla. -- I'd spent the beautiful spring morning strolling the sands of one of the four barrier islands along this stretch of Florida's gulf shore, stopping once to watch a patient heron, which was eyeballing an even more patient fisherman in the hopes of sharing his catch.
Earlier, I'd focused my binoculars on a pod of dolphins dipping and diving in the warm waters and thought about the European explorers who had sailed these seas.
They didn't find gold, except perhaps for the treasure trove of natural attractions that I was enjoying along this stretch of Florida's "forgotten coast."I'm vacationing in Franklin County, 1,400 square kilometres of Florida's northwest panhandle that takes in the municipalities of Carrabelle and Apalachicola, the county seat. More than 87 per cent of county land is either state or federally protected, a fact that no doubt pains developers, but is a blessing for vacationers.
There's just one traffic light in the entire county.
However, like other Florida resorts, there has been a surge of construction in recent years, including a range of beach homes -- cottages and condos to seven-bedroom mansions -- many of which are rented to tourists.
With the Gulf of Mexico on its southern boundary, the region boasts more than 300 kilometres of warm water shoreline. It's part of a healthy eco-system that provides some added fresh attractions for visitors. The waters around the community produce 90 per cent of Florida's oyster supply while Apalachicola's shrimp boats harvest four varieties of the succulent treats during their 10-month fishing season. Not surprisingly, most of the 3,000 people living in "Apalach," as the locals call it, still rely on the region's rich fishing resources for their livelihood.
They say it's like Florida used to be. Judging by the ease I'd fitted into the laid back local landscape, I'd have to say vacationers back then must have enjoyed a pretty relaxed lifestyle.
Despite its reputation as Florida's "forgotten coast," it was anything but when I took my mid-morning meander along the beach, at least as far as the wildlife was concerned.Lying just 130 kilometres southwest of Tallahassee, and a long stone's throw east of the muscle and sun-screen beaches of Panama City, Franklin County, by comparison seems to have slumbered through much of Florida's $50 billion annual tourism boom.
I'd spent the previous day kayaking the tranquil freshwater creeks in the area and a delightful couple of hours hunting shells along the quiet shoreline. Now, back at my beach-front lookout, the only sounds were ocean splashing against sand, and ice tinkling in my rum punch. It's a scene that calls for a long, delicious sigh, which I dutifully released to a cloudless, blue sky.
Vacations sometimes call for energy and purpose. Today, however, I felt all that vigour was for the birds. And talking about birds, it wasn't only my peckish heron that made this Florida patch its home.
The county's four barrier islands provide the first landfall for migratory birds arriving from South America. Not surprisingly, there are all manner of sea birds, including gulls, brown pelicans and cormorants. In the fall, the islands are also the last jumping off point for the birds as they head back south. Come spring, colourful songbirds -- warblers, buntings, tanagers, grosbeaks and vireos -- all claim landing rights here.Sipping my cold drink, I took it all in. Relaxation came without guilt, especially considering I had planned a deep-sea fishing excursion for my next day of vacation.
There are 17 marinas in the county with the largest concentrations found in Carrabelle and Apalachicola. Fishers are lured by flounder, redfish, sea trout, whiting and pompano, and there are some 50 professional fishing guides in Franklin County. Most captains charter by the half or full day with prices often including licences, equipment and bait.
Given the location, it's not surprising to find that just about everyone around town is carrying a fishing rod, but camera enthusiasts are also drawn to the area.Whether snapping panoramas of colourful fishing boats, clicking away at a school of dolphins or focusing on a bald eagle nesting among the surrounding pine and cypress trees, camera buffs are kept busy.
When you've finished your day of kayaking, photographing or fishing, you can take a walk to any numbers of corner eateries and enjoy a fabulous grouper sandwich, a local delicacy that is on pretty well every menu.Prices are pretty reasonable. For less then $10, I enjoyed a dozen delicious oysters served on the half shell at Eddy Teachs' Raw Bar on St. George Island. Or you could go for draft beer and an assortment of fried catfish, onion rings, fries and hushpuppies (fried corn bread) at Pirate's Tiki Hut in Carrabelle. Neither option will slim your waistline, or your wallet.
From staying in Apalachicola's impressive restored historic district or renting accommodations on St. George Island, the largest and the only inhabited barrier island here, there's a wide range of accommodation choices.
In the low and off-season -- fall through spring -- you can track down excellent bargains ranging from inns and motels to beach condos and villas.
Connected by bridges and causeways to the mainland, St. George is easily accessible from Apalachicola, but island life still moves at a more languid pace.
Only 25 kilometres long, St. George Island is easy to explore. You can simply park your car, rent a bike, a motor scooter or just walk along the trails.
At the eastern tip, St. George Island State Park occupies almost 2,000 acres of sandy coves, salt marshes, pine and oak forests.
The park offers both primitive and full-facility camping and its 14 kilometres of pristine beaches are ideal for family-oriented fun.
The park is a major resting spot for migratory birds on their long trips down to the Yucatan.
Offering a true escape from the commercial lures of the mainland, neighbouring St. Vincent Island delivers an up-close and personal contact with Mother Nature.
With its mild and sub-tropical climate, St. Vincent Island is habitat to a rich assortment of resident wildlife in its tidal marshes and forests. Daily ferry service to St. Vincent from Indian Pass on the mainland (25 kilometres west of Apalachicola) takes only a few minutes. No vehicular traffic or overnight stays are allowed.